Registered savings
Four accounts. Which one first?
TFSA, RRSP, FHSA and RESP do genuinely different jobs. Getting the order right is worth more than picking the right fund inside them.
The four accounts
Limits verified against Canada Revenue Agency publications on 2026-08-24.
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TFSA Tax-Free Savings Account$7,000 this year Money goes in after tax, grows tax-free, and comes out tax-free. Withdrawals restore your room the following January. Best for: Almost everyone, almost always first.
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RRSP Registered Retirement Savings Plan18% of earned income, to $33,810 You get a tax deduction now and pay tax on withdrawal. It works when your rate today is higher than it will be in retirement. Best for: Higher earners, and anyone with employer matching.
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FHSA First Home Savings Account$8,000 a year, $40,000 lifetime Deductible going in like an RRSP, tax-free coming out like a TFSA, if used for a qualifying first home. The best of both, once. Best for: First-time buyers. Newcomers especially.
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RESP Registered Education Savings Plan$50,000 lifetime per child The government adds 20 cents to every dollar on the first $2,500 a year, to $7,200 per child. A matching grant, not an investment return. Best for: Parents and grandparents.
The order that usually works
- Employer RRSP or pension matching, up to the match. A 50 per cent match is a 50 per cent instant return. Nothing else on this page competes with that.
- High-interest debt. Clearing a credit card charging 21 per cent removes a certain 21 per cent cost. No investment account can promise to beat that.
- An emergency fund — three months of expenses, in a TFSA so the growth is not taxed and the money stays reachable.
- RESP, if there is a child, at least to $2,500 a year to capture the full 20 per cent grant.
- FHSA, if you might buy a first home in the next fifteen years. Open it early even if you cannot fund it — room only starts once the account exists.
- TFSA to the limit, then RRSP beyond the employer match, weighted toward the RRSP if you are in a high tax bracket now.
This is general information, not a recommendation. It is the sequence most households are taught, not advice about your household. A 24-year-old apprentice and a 48-year-old engineer with a defined-benefit pension should do different things, and neither should follow a list off a website without checking it against their own situation.
Note also what I am licensed for. I can advise on and place insurance products — including segregated funds and annuities held inside these accounts. Deciding how to allocate savings across accounts, or which securities to hold, is a question for an accountant or a licensed investment representative. Where that is what you need, I will say so.
What I can and cannot help with
I am licensed for insurance. Inside a registered account, that means segregated funds and annuities — insurance contracts that hold investments, with maturity and death benefit guarantees, potential creditor protection, and the ability to name a beneficiary so the money bypasses the estate.
They also carry higher fees than an equivalent mutual fund or index fund, because those guarantees cost something. For a self-employed person worried about creditors, or someone who wants an account to pass directly to a beneficiary, that trade is often worth it. For a salaried employee with a long horizon and no creditor exposure, frequently it is not — and I will say so, even though saying so pays me nothing.
I cannot sell you stocks, ETFs or mutual funds, and I do not manage portfolios. If that is what you need, you need a different licence than mine, and I will tell you that on the first call rather than the third.
Common questions
Which account should I fill first?
What happens if I over-contribute?
Do you sell mutual funds or stocks?
I just arrived in Canada. Do I have TFSA room?
Not sure which account your next $500 should go into?
That is a twenty-minute conversation, and the answer is often not the account you were expecting.